Wingtips, sneakers, loafers and creepers. These are just some of the types of shoes that can be found pacing around Florence, Italy during the incomparable Pitti Uomo week.
I have often heard people (mainly men) lament that menswear is one-dimensional and limiting. Pitti Uomo, however, is a fair that celebrates menswear’s full spectrum. If you are looking for nuance, prepare to be inundated with it, right in the heart of Fortezza da Basso.
Dating back to 1972, Pitti Uomo is a biannual event which falls under the Pitti Immagine umbrella. It hosts guests from all over the globe and across every genre of style imaginable. They are all united by one common love. It’s tacit; only truly understood by true enthusiasts.
I had the opportunity of attending Pitti 94 two years ago – something that I never thought I would experience in a million years. Up until that point, I had only seen photos of it online; through the lens of people like the prolific Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist. Beyond the impeccable fits and perfect primping, what stood out for me was the collision of streetwear and dandyism. It made for an intriguing symphony. Even better; seeing women holding their own in the most beautiful suits – with all the flamboyance that a true Pitti Peacock possesses. I was moved to see fellow South Africans shine at the fair, looking dapper as ever.
This year’s Pitti Uomo 97 took place from the 7th to the 10th of January. Judging from the photos, the attendees sported more laid-back and utilitarian looks this year. Think “midnight run to the bodega (or in this case the alimentari)”, but make it fashion. The boys were cozy, donning layered neutrals with occasional pops of colour to confuse the enemy.
Beyond street style, the event serves as a yardstick for menswear trends to come. It’s a great opportunity for fashion buyers to peruse the latest clothing and accessories collections from a myriad of brands. It’s also a great place to network. Special Guest Stefano Pilati presented his F/W 20 collection for his latest project, Random Identities. The eclectic Telfar Clemens presented his menswear collection for his eponymous brand, which was chosen as Pitti 97’s Special Project. Lucie & Luke Meier of Jil Sanders – also guest designers – showed their fall collection too. This was a full circle moment for the creative couple, having met at POLIMODA (my alma mater), in Florence, many years ago.
The event is really spectacular and worth following. With regards to menswear as a whole, I look forward to seeing more gender blending, more rule-breaking, more futurism, more architecture and ultimately more storytelling. I can’t wait to see what Pitti Uomo 98 (16 – 19 June 2020) has in store and to see which style aficionados will hold the fort.
THE BEFITTING ROOM 